The Crazy Genius

Editors Note: This reader submission comes from my long-time friend, surf buddy, and Go partner, John Bustard. Writing out of Honolulu, Hawai’i, and navigating the stresses of this neverending pandemic, John is spending more time out in the ocean than ever. When he’s not surfing, prone paddle boarding, or bodysurfing Sandy’s, he’s charging his Nissan Leaf to get him there.

John and I go way back, and I feel fortunate to have gotten to know this incredible (albeit reserved) person. I’m stoked to share a glimpse into that churning, critical mind of his, usually reserved for those intimate conversations that follow a 12-pack of beers or an excessively long lull between sets.

Take it away, John.

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Any frequent traveler on Hawaiian Airlines has read a great story or two in Hana Hou!, the award winning in-flight magazine. Packed with rich stories from Hawai’i and abroad, it’s a pleasant 20-minute escape from that middle seat in economy you splurged on for “extra leg room.”

In a recent perusal of the Magazine on a trip back to the islands, I stumbled upon an article on the surfing career of a relatively underground surfer. I’ll admit that as I coast into my mid 20’s, it’s getting tougher to ignore that cocky voice in my head telling me to ignore the irrelevant old timer and pave my own way. Yet, the story was remarkably captivating and a quote mid way through stuck a cord, “Aggression and the ocean don’t mix.”

My mind raced, contemplating how this seemed to be more than some meaningless pointer, but an an aphorism for the human connection with the ocean and surfing in particular. In some ways the phrase makes so much sense. In other ways, there are holes.

Okay so I’ll get into ways this concept jives, but for now let’s focus on ways I call bullshit. As much as everybody wants to be a #positivevibewarrior out there, let’s face it: being on the aggressive side of the lineup works and can get you far. You get more waves, which equals more experience, which leads to better surfing.

Committed and “aggressive” turns are also a joy to watch. Just look at legends like Billy Kemper, Carissa Moore, Mikey Wright, Zeke Lau, Gabriel Medina, and the 38-year-old juiced out guy at your local spot who calls everybody off and absolutely tears. One could even argue that all these surfers are pros and rip because they are aggressive. At the very least, it’s a contributing factor.

It’s impossible to deny that animal-like aggression exists in surfing and ocean related sport. Personally, I enjoy witnessing aggression in the water. It psyches me up and reminds me that other people care. I love watching those surfers surf and I look up to them too.

You often times need that aggressive mindset to take off on a wave that is past your comfort zone in order to progress. Timidly paddling for waves and never taking off doesn’t get you anywhere, and often times pisses other people off.

So, does aggression in fact work well as a surfer? Should we ignore this advice? Does aggression only work for pros? Do you need to be aggressive, to some extent, to become a better surfer? Are these surfers actually aggressive, or just ultra confident? Is an aggressive looking turn just aggressive looking? Is there a time and place for humans to be aggressive in the ocean? Am I just missing the point and aggression should be used selectively? How do you turn aggression on and off? It’s a lot to process!

On the other side of the fence, there are plenty of arguments in favor of checking your aggression at the door.

Never swim against a rip current. This is one of those basic teachings that requires backward thinking. The calmer and smoother you are in the face of impending danger (getting swept out to sea) the better. Easier said than done but aggressively arm paddling against the current will prove fruitless.

Another example is in prone paddle boarding. I got into the sport a few years ago to take advantage of howling trade winds and somewhat flat surf conditions. In my relatively short and inexperienced prone career I have found that I go the fastest when I try the least. In fact, striving to be anti-aggressive on a paddle is when it becomes the most fun and I get closer to the ocean spiritually. Fighting with the direction of a wave or chop will leave you capsized, boardless, winded, and floating to Tahiti. It always baffles me that my gauge for going fast or slow on an 8 mile paddle is how I feel after. If I’m dead tired, I have gone slower. If I’m ready for more, I may have broken a personal record.

A video clip I remember encourages surfing in a pseudo hungover state. Picture those mornings when you wake up at your buddy’s house and there’s a deep wrap-around couch you slouch your way into with a sigh. As you munch on some greasy UberEats breakfast burritos, normal observations become the funniest things and the past and future fades aways. All that matters is the present. This works!

If you tense up when getting caught inside on a set or stress over having the perfect form on a turn, surfing is hard. The last thing you’d do hungover is fight something that’s hard, so don’t. Getting caught inside becomes just another thing. Whatever. Having the perfect form on a turn? Overrated. It too shall pass, and you may find yourself in the perfect spot. Or not. This state should be distinguished from carelessness. Rather, a tuned back ego and “beginners mind” can help tremendously.

Laughing isn’t aggressive, right? Ha. Ha. “Laugh if you get caught in a sketchy ocean situation” is a tip I’ve heard before and works personally every time. Just look at Nate Florence. He seems to be laughing 99% of the time in his ! I GOT CAUGHT INSIDE AT PIPELINE ! videos (which are sooo heavy). Some people would call him crazy. Others, a crazy genius, proving the effectiveness of the anti-aggressive mindset.

So, where do you fall on the aggressive spectrum out there in the water? Tough to answer, isn’t it. I personally tend to sway toward the anti-aggressive side. Us average surfers probably don’t not have the right to be aggressive in most situations, and I’ve found it can lead to some crucial states of mind to becoming more comfortable in the ocean in general.

But hey, sometimes you need to let it ride. Embrace that wide-eyed wave hungry creature inside. Perhaps the moral to the story is to strive to strike that balance on the seesaw between the mind of the headstrong 20 year old and the wise sensei pulling toward equilibrium.